Back in 2017, I took off for a life on the road with not much more than my dog and my dual sport. Without any prior experience, it was a challenge to figure out how to make it work properly, and the setup I used evolved over the years.
Let's take it back to the beginning:
I began this journey with my first home on wheels, an old worn down 31' motorhome. This vehicle came standard with a rear 2" receiver, which made it very easy to throw a bike hauler on the back and pack the dual sport with me everywhere I went.
After 6 months of living in the motorhome, I decided it was far too big to be a daily driver and my home. There was also the factor of having the bike out in the weather and accessible to theft, and I wanted to change all of that.
The first vehicle I switched to was a 1971 Chevy van at the very beginning of 2018. It was pretty worn out and the interior was pretty much gone. I built some of the inside, nothing much more than some insulation, framing, a bit of paneling, and minimal electrical.
However, to keep my bike secure and safe from the weather, I designed the interior so that the bike could live inside the van. The cab was walled off, and I removed the windows and installed steel panels in their place so that no one could get into the back and take the bike if I wasn't with it.
This van never came equipped with a receiver, so the bike was ALWAYS in the van unless I was riding it or parked in a safe campspot. This gave me the ability to stress less about it.
However, after a year of sleeping with the footpeg hitting my shoulder, the bike taking up most of my living space, and smelling gas all of the time, I was ready for a new solution. Maybe keeping the bike THAT secure wasn't as important as my daily comfort.
Unfortunately I rolled that van down a hillside in the winter of 2018, and found its new home in a salvage yard.
I was able to find a new van fairly quickly, this time a heavier duty one. Almost immediately, I went to work on coming up with a new plan. This one ton van had an interior that was built by someone else, and most of the storage was under the bed. Accessing all of my belongings easily meant I needed to be able to open the back doors fairly often, so I decided to go straight to designing a way to carry the bike up front. This also opened up the opportunity to carry a 2nd bike on the back if needed.
After many days of researching and hunting, I could not find a bolt-on kit available anywhere, and found a local welder to help me put something together myself. A quick trip to the auto parts store, and I had a 2" receiver tube that could be welded to a piece of square steel tubing that was joined with the van's front bumper mounts. It was a bit tricky to make it all fit and sit correctly, but it ended up working great.
The first drive with my KTM up front was super fun, it was cool seeing the bike up there while driving, and visibility was just fine. I could easily get into my back doors, and the extra weight on the front actually helped the van handle a bit better on the highway.
Fast forward thousands of miles later, and I upgraded to a slightly newer and better suited Chevy van. Unfortunately, the bumper mounts on the two models were not the same after some design changes from the factory over the years, so I was unable to take my custom receiver off and transfer it to the new one.
Following the same design and process, I made another for the new van. It worked great, just as the last one did, for thousands of more miles.
With the stock headlights struggling to get through, and making it dangerous to drive at night, I added a round headlight to the front of the bike carrier that could easily be removed. It was wired to the headlight circuit with a connector to be easily removed.
However, many months later, I was driving down the highway and hit a dip. The bike bounced and was suddenly bent forward at a 45 degree angle...I thought it was going to snap off and causing a nightmare of a wreck and destroy the bike. I was able to pull over, and use some ratchet straps and ingenuity to safely get it somewhere I could find a way to make it stronger.
On this 2nd round of fabricating, to keep the bike a bit lower, 2 of the 2" receiver weld-on pieces were added on top of one another. I was able to locate a bolt on style receiver, and drilled holes into the crossmember of the front suspension.
I ran a length of 2" square tube from the lower front receiver, to the new crossmember, drilled holes and added heavy duty hardware. A bit of primer and paint was applied much later during the painting of the full exterior of the van.
To this day, the same front receiver setup is still being used years later and still works great! With upgraded headlights, the aux front headlight became unnecessary and it's much easier to see properly while driving at night.
Even before the beginning of this journey, I have been using the Ultimate MX Hauler as my go-to bike carrier. It makes it so much easier to load/unload the bike, and even leaves your suspension unloaded at all times.
Download the GPX file at the end of the article. GAIA GPS is my recommended dual sport navigation and planning app. I've been using it for many years now.
Known widely as a mecca for 4x4s, this red-rock saturated landscape is also an amazing destination for the dual sport enthusiast. Read along as we outline some of our favorite dual sport destinations, rides, and more in this unique corner of the world for a four day adventure.
Moab’s weather can be vastly different depending on what month you arrive, so plan ahead. Temperatures in the summer can make it almost impossible to ride difficult trails during the day, and winter can bring snowstorms that trap multiple 4x4s in canyons in just the first day.
This place is like an amusement park for offroad riding, but the terrain also carries some very high risks at times...even if the road is perfectly smooth. Riding on the edge of one of the rims will quickly remind you how human you are, and help you sharply focus on “look before you leap” all day long. On a lighter note, the traction is almost too good, as it rips the treads right off of your tires from lifting your front wheel all day long.
One of the most appealing features of the state of Utah is its endless amount of public lands and outright space, but this also makes each supply stop far and few between if you are passing through.
Depending on your definition of “camping”, or even just changing needs for specific amenities, there is definitely a camping spot for you in the Moab region any day of the week.
Camping is plentiful in the area, easy to find, and large enough to space yourself out from other campers. You can find it in almost every corner of the Moab area, even miles and miles from town. Many of these sites are free to use thanks to our public lands, but sometimes require a pass or fee.
Check the GPX file for the camping areas Willow Springs Entrance, as well as Sand Flats Recreation Area, to get you started.
Full/partial service RV parks are common, but are difficult to find or non-existent outside of the city limits of Moab. So, if you require electricity, water, and/or sewer at all times, you’ll be starting your bike for the day somewhere near downtown.
Dispersed camping in this area expands even farther than the campsites mentioned before. Look at the Public Lands map layer on Gaia GPS, and you’ll see how much BLM land spreads across the entire Moab area, let alone the whole state of Utah. Check with local regulations first, but these areas are great for getting way out into the middle of nowhere to camp in peace. Be prepared with fuel, water, a plan, and a good navigation resource before wandering out...sand, surprise rocks, and more can change your schedule quickly, and Utah has some very expansive sections of absolutely nothing but rocks and a very faint two track.
The major fuel stops in town are the Maverick gas stations, offering almost everything you’d expect at a large franchise convenience store, including ethanol free gas.
Just outside of Willow Springs, our favorite free campsite, is the Archview gas station, giving more access to the northern side of Moab, without the need to run into Moab proper to re-fuel every day.
South of Moab (quite a ways), there is another fuel stop, in a convenient location for exploring the La Sal Mountains and the RimRocker Trail (found in the GPX file) or general “South of Moab” area.
Not an entirely exciting topic, and Moab reflects that. There is a City Market, a franchise grocery store. For an alternative option, check out MoonFlower Community Cooperative for a more healthy approach.
Being a highly popular tourist destination, this town has some great eateries. For a nice evening of a steak and cocktails, go to Zac’s. Following, head over to The Spoke for a milkshake. For a wilder night, walk into Woody’s Tavern, grab a pitcher, and sign up for karaoke. Moab also features a small handful of fast food restaurants, as well as small coffee shops and places to grab sandwiches during a re-fuel of your bike.
Zac’s, The Spoke, and Woody’s Tavern can all be found in the GPX file.
As you drive up into the area, about 3 minutes from Moab, there is an overwhelming view of petrified sand dunes in every direction. These rolling hills are what people travel hours and hours to ride, and after rolling around on slickrock, I understand why. Don’t worry about supplying yourself before heading up into this area for the night, you can ride your dual sport back into town to grab beer in a matter of minutes.
If you are up for it and have the daylight, you can complete all of the trails in the SFRA in one day.
If you want to stay in the SFRA, you’ll have to pay a camping fee. In our opinion, it’s worth it to be within minutes of the trails this area has to offer, and there’s plenty to ride to justify an overnight (or multiple!). Think of it as a premium OHV park. Campgrounds are spread out, and categorized by letter. Our favorite site was G6, featuring a large canyon for your fire pit and picnic table, which we found by checking out the campground features using various layers on Gaia GPS.
With a long heritage in this area, this trail is the most unique feature I have EVER ridden on. As you begin your ride, you’ll notice that you’ll ride along what seems to be just one gigantic rock, rolling up and down as you follow the painted dashes. This trail brings you down close to a massive canyon below, and sunsets up here are an amazing sight.
One of the most popular routes in this area, Hell’s Revenge takes you on a wild ride over massive “fins”, which are tall spines of petrified sand dunes, sometimes multiple stories tall. You’ll also ride alongside dinosaur tracks, which have an unfortunate history of being stolen. Right out of the parking lot, you ascend straight up and over “Lion’s Rock”, a small example of the fins you’ll be going over just minutes down the trail after thundering through a small canyon. The big highlight of this route is stopping to view the overlook of “The Abyss”, the perfect spot to line your bikes up for a postcard-worthy photo.
If not for the ride, this trail is worth it just for the view of Castle Valley from above. It’s long, and spans the entire length of the SFRA area, starting from the very back and dropping you off at the front again.
Deftly named, this park has some of the most beautiful canyon views you’ll ever see, especially up close and personal on a dual sport.
If you pull up your Public Lands layer on the Gaia GPS app, you’ll see that just north of the park is a very large area of BLM land. Drive or ride through this area on almost any road, and you’ll see designated campsites marked with the classic brown/white tent logo. Some of these are a bit of a stretch to get to, but are positioned just under massive red rock structures.
A true full day adventure if you want it to be (or if you get a flat), this old road starts out with a steep zig-zag down the face of a cliff, and drops you into the depths of Canyonland. Anyone afraid of heights might want to close their eyes on the ride down, but once at the bottom, they’ll be rewarded with an incredible view upon reopening them.
True open riding, this sandy section can be seen on the map very clearly bordered where you can overland. If you already camped in the BLM area mentioned above, it’s a short ride, and you’ll pass through Rainbow Terrace along the way.
If you’ve found that riding directly on the red slickrock, hopping up and down ledges, head to the Rainbow Terrace, named after it’s staircase-like ride alongside red cliffs hundreds of feet high.
If you have a comfortable pair of riding boots, take a day of easy riding and short walks to see some of this area’s flagship feature: arches.
The road through Willow Springs dispersed campground continues right into Arches, so camping in this area for free pairs well with a day in this park. You’ll find a handful of vault toilets, but there is no water available. There is very limited cell phone signal (which might be a bonus to you if you are trying to escape the black mirror in your pocket).
These things are plentiful, even outside of the park. As you travel through the outskirts of Moab, you’ll just find them in all sorts of corners. However, these ones are special and all in one place (almost). Delicate Arch is highly recommended, not just for it’s prominence, but the petroglyphs that can be seen on the way up. Wear riding boots you don’t mind hiking in, as you’ll need to hop off of the bike and walk to enjoy them up close.
Want to get on some red rock just minutes after fueling up in town? Moab has plenty of worthy trails that can literally be seen from town.
Staying in town, even for those who prefer to boondock, is worth doing for at least one night during your visit. Not only does this put you within walking (or jeans-and-a-helmet riding) distance of the downtown amenities, you still have some slickrock action just a few minutes away. Slickrock Campground is just north of town, and is in a good position to access the town of Moab and the majority of the riding found in this article.
Through “The Portal”, you’ll find a large grouping of offroad trails that take you up to the top of the Moab Rim. A local favorite, the Poison Spider Mesa, takes you up to a viewpoint to look down on the city of Moab just below your feet. This is a much more difficult trail, so know your limits.
More of a couple hour loop at most, this very easy and scenic route is perfect for a sunset ride after dinner. You’ll pass through the same Portal as mentioned above, but on the other side of the Colorado River, giving you an opportunity to see the other half of the rim.
Not ready to leave Moab? Feeling adventurous? How about riding from Moab to Montrose, CO and back in a day?
This very established trail has more trail markers leading the way than ANY other place I have ever seen. This route can be found on the supplied GPX file, but if you keep your head up, you’ll be guided by brown posts with the “RR” logo and an arrow lighting the way.
Enjoy your dual sport adventure in Moab! Make sure to throw an oversized fuel tank on your bike prior to arriving to fully enjoy it...you won’t want to stop riding!
Get 20% discount on Gaia Premium, follow this link: http://www.gaiagps.com/discounts/#_r_pnwds
About the writer:Jesse Felker is a freelance media professional based out of the Western half of the USA, living full time in a 1983 Chevy van. |
Snowy roads are definitely not fun, especially when you are in rear wheel drive vehicle. Many people just avoid doing it altogether. Many of these tips also apply to light sand and mud that might stop you from moving forward down the road.
While the ideal upgrade is obviously four wheel drive, vans with it already are expensive, and adding it to a two wheel drive van is a huge job. Here's some information to help you do it anyway, so you can continue the adventure:
Tires: Make sure you have plenty of tread. A worn tire will have far less traction in the snow. A bigger tire is ideal, because it is more surface area for traction. A trick to help increase the traction of the tire you already have is to air your tire pressure down, which will widen the contact patch. Snow tires and/or studded tires are great to use in the snow and ice, but if you are living full time in a van, switching/storing your tires twice a year might be a large task, so look for All Terrain tires instead.
Chains: Carry chains! The best way to add traction in the snow and ice is throwing these one. We use the "Z chain" style and supplement them with the rubber tension straps, which are very easy to install. Chains are also ideal for situations where you are already getting stuck.
Tools: Even when taking steps to prepare for your winter drive, it's possible you may still get stuck. Carry a shovel to dig out the tires, and sand or cat litter can be placed on the ground to add traction and melt the snow/ice a bit. Carry a tow strap rated for the weight of your van, keeping in mind the amount of force that may be applied if someone has to yank the strap with their vehicle. I have also used a piece of wood ratchet strapped to the rear tire as a cleat, just be careful not to catch your fender or a brake line.
Driving: Take it slow. If the roads are bad enough, other drivers may get impatient, but don't let it stress you. Go at your pace to stay moving and safe. Don't use any sudden increase in speed, gently accelerate to minimize the chance of slipping the tires and losing traction. Plan way ahead for braking. You don't want to stop quickly, as your tires will lock up and you will slide, especially in a corner. Pump the brakes gently and repeatedly. A great way to check the road conditions is to use your brakes slightly abrupt on a very straight section, if the nose of the van drops, you have traction. If it does not, you are sliding. In icy conditions, you may find driving in the fresh snow has more traction vs the tracks other cars have made. When going downhill, try to downshift into a lower gear and let the engine slow the vehicle down instead of using brakes.
Upgrades: A 4x4 upgrade on a van may be very expensive and very involved, but it's not totally off the table if you have money and/or are mechanically inclined. This would be the ideal situation. However, a more reasonable upgrade would be a limited slip differential. Most vans have an "open differential", which causes only one tire on the rear to spin when you lose traction. The limited slip will do the opposite, and make sure both rear tires spin in those situations.
Driving a camper van is definitely not a fun thing to do, and can be dangerous. I once slid off of a hillside and totaled a van in the snow. If you can avoid it, I recommend it. Most places you will encounter snowy roads have measures in place to plow and de-ice roads, so sometimes just parking and waiting it out is the best option. After all, you probably have a bed or couch to hang out on.
Be careful out there, and please do more research on these topics. This is just what I have experienced and learned, but others may have great advice as well.
I was inspired to write this story about a year after crashing my first van. I lost my only home and car, and it was scary not having either in just a moment of catastrophy:
]]>The Dakar line has been around for quite a while now, but every year it has improved. This KLiM system is our go-to for almost every type of riding we do, for many reasons. It’s durable, comfortable, versatile, and designed with the rider’s experience in mind.
In its most basic form, the Dakar is a great dirt bike setup. With a set of in-the-boot pants and a jersey over your base layer and dirt armor, you’re ready to take on a day of singletrack, racing, and more while wearing something that can take abuse and keep you from overheating. With the right armor and helmet, this setup also works great as a hot weather dual sport kit.
For a more dual-sport approach, the Dakar jacket comes into play. With much more abrasion protection than the jersey alone, you’ll have a stronger layer between your skin and the pavement. Naturally, a jacket like this will definitely be warmer than a jersey, but the Dakar jacket does an impressive job with ventilation that can be open or closed.
The biggest advantage here is the fact that the jacket can have D3O armor installed directly into it, as well as the out-of-the-boot Dakar pants. Without the need for dirt armor underneath the gear, the suit has a feeling of something in between an adventure riding setup and a dirt setup, which is in essence what dual sporting is all about. Some riders find this more comfortable as it ventilates better and is less constricting, and taking off the jacket alone without walking around with torso armor on can be handy. Just put on a base layer, slip on the pants and jacket, and you’re off.
Our favorite single piece of this lineup is the jacket, because of its versatility. It can also be used over the dirt setup for added protection, colder mornings, and a bit more pockets for storage. The sleeves can be zipped off and stored in a large pocket on the back, and the corners of the collar can be strapped back to let more air in. With two chest vents, four arm vents (the lower of which has a two-way zipper), and two back vents, the jacket lets an impressive amount of air through while moving.
We have received the same question about the jacket many times: “Is it waterproof?”, which, it is definitely not. This is an advantage to the venting of the material. Our solution: the Forecast kit. With the easily packable GORE-TEX jacket, pants, and over gloves, you’ll be able to ride in the rain without getting yourself and your gear soaked.
If you’re a rider looking for versatility and durability in your gear for changing conditions, the 2019 KLIM Dakar layering system is for you.
One of the most common questions I see asked on the PNWDS Facebook group is "Are any of you using a cell phone as a GPS?". With today's smartphone technology, GPS apps are a great way to navigate during an adventure.
Phones are great as a navigation tool for many reasons. You most likely already own a smartphone capable of GPS navigation, and they also come in handy as a backup to your dedicated GPS unit. In a lot of ways, the apps are actually easier to use than a dedicated unit is.
A very common misunderstanding when people first hear of these apps, is that they won't be able to use them if they don't have cell service. This is actually false. Modern smartphones use the same type of GPS signal receiver as a stand-alone GPS unit, which means your phone is capable of acquiring your accurate location as long as it has connection with GPS satellites. So, almost anywhere! However, here's the catch: even though the app will be able to pin-point your exact location without cell service, it won't be able to download detailed map data if you don't have cell reception to download that data.
The solution to that issue is the right app! Our favorite we have found is a free app called Gaia, which also has premium features that allow you to use some great map overlays, and even download detailed overlays of each of those maps for offline use. That means you can use those maps in detail without cell reception!
The free version of Gaia has Gaia Topo maps available for use:
Most of us like to use these apps to "bread-crumb" our way as we explore, so we can record our path to save, or to help us find our way back where we started. We also like to get tracks from others, so we can follow a specific route. As soon as you have finished recording your route, just click the timer in the top left corner and save the track.
Here's an example of the free version of Gaia, while we tracked our way down some trails in Capitol Forest:
Dropping in GPX files made by others into the app is easy. Follow the steps below to see how it's done using Gaia:
Find the GPX you want to download, like this one from the PNW Dual Sport 2018 Summer Opener event.
Choose “Download”
Select “Open In”
Choose the Gaia app
The tracks, waypoints, and routes will automatically populate
Choose which map overlays to use
Premium features of Gaia include map overlays (Satellite, USGS Topo, NatGeo Illustrated, etc), the ability to download these map overlays, and even layer them on top of one another.
Selecting the area of the map to download for offline use.
Get started navigating by visiting GaiaGPS.com, and grab the app for free.
Get 20% discount on Gaia Premium, follow this link: http://www.gaiagps.com/discounts/#_r_pnwds
Have fun tracking your rides!
As you probably already know, the KLiM Krios helmet does it all. It’s extremely lightweight, aerodynamic, quiet, and has the ability to adapt into many forms as seen in the animation below. ADV, dirt, street, and dual sport.
There’s a reason why I believe it’s the best dual sport helmet on the market.
Over the last few years, I have used the Krios helmet almost exclusively.
From ADV trips, riding around the city, hours of singletrack, full day dual sport adventures, you name it…I've used it for everything.
Weighing just under 3.3lbs, it’s an extremely light helmet, thanks to its carbon fiber construction. This keeps the strain off of your neck, and allows maneuverability and comfort all day long.
In the photos below, you can see the versatility of the Krios. Pictured on the left is the new Krios Pro, and on the right, a Krios Karbon (the original Krios) that has been well used for a few years straight.
In its main form, the Krios is what I consider an ADV helmet. Essentially, a dirt helmet with a lens. With the minimalist visor, air is able to easily pass through, preventing the “sail” effect of most dirt visors. In addition, the helmet features a large spoiler on the back for aerodynamics at highway speeds.
For a dual sport setup, I prefer to have the combination of a lens and goggles. This allows eye protection, hearing the sounds around you, and high breathability with the lens open. Once you hit the highway, you can drop the lens down seamlessly over the goggles and improve aerodynamics and block out the wind.
For a day of trail riding, the lens can be completely removed, allowing the user to operate the Krios as a dirt helmet.
For anyone who also has a street bike, cruiser, or similar motorcycle, you can remove the visor for even more aerodynamics and the look of a street helmet.
With the Krios having four different modes, it eliminates the need for a handful of helmets by allowing the user to only own one helmet instead of purchasing four different ones, making sense of its premium price tag.
Later down the road, KLiM introduced the upgrade of a Transition lens, which comes standard with the Krios Pro.
With the introduction of the Krios Pro, KLiM was able to improve an already amazing helmet. First and foremost, the Pro features the new Koroyd protection that has already been used in the F5 dirt helmet. This makes the already super light shell even lighter at just over 3lbs, and allows for more ventilation with its tube-like structure.
The chin vent on the Pro has been changed to a standard pass-through type, with a closable vent. Functionally, this works far better for venting. However, it doesn’t look as cool as the original Krios, and requires some microphone placement adjustments on the headset. On a hot day, I’ll be glad they made the change.
To make putting on and taking off the helmet super simple, the chin strap now features Fidlock. This uses a magnet to lock the strap into place. With this improvement, you can easily strap and unstrap the helmet with your gloves on in just a couple seconds, even with one hand.
We are looking to put even more years on this helmet with the new Pro. A helmet we can wear all day, in every condition, and without thinking about the helmet so we can focus on the ride instead.
Head over to KLiM.com to pick up your own Krios Karbon or Krios Pro.
]]>To start, I’d like to let you know I am not a professional. I don’t have any formal training.
However, I would like to give you some tips I have picked up over the years from my experience, research, and helpful tips from other photographers.
So, what is it that makes a great “moto photo”?
The most common question I am asked by far is:
What kind of camera do you use??
Now, this is the wrong question to ask, almost always. Telling a photographer they “must have a great camera” is like telling a chef his meal was so good because he has a really expensive frying pan. Equipment doesn’t make a great photo. However, it can increase the photo quality, which is far different. We’ll touch on that much later.
We all know the old saying “A photo is worth a thousand words”. It tells the viewer a story, a feeling, captures a great moment in time.
I like to say often, “Some of my favorite photos don’t require a caption".
Pick out a recent photo you took. What story does it tell? Why is compelling? How is it interesting?
A quick google search of the “greatest photos of all time” will bring up a ton of powerful photos taken over the path of history. Many of these photos were taken with a simple camera, so how can it be such a great image?
A good friend of mine, Jason Small (an awesome photographer himself), once told us a quote about taking powerful photos:
“F8 and be there.”
Now, that might be cryptic. “F” is a keyword for a certain setting on the camera that controls the focus. We’ll explain it in further detail later in the story, but F8 is a very standard setting for photographers of all kinds. It allows almost everything in the camera’s view to be in focus. So what Jason’s quote is saying is:
Have a camera, and be in the right place, at the right time.
This is the most important factor in photography in our opinion. You can’t just “create” a story, you must capture one. Some of those iconic photos of the past were simply because the photographer was THERE.
This isn’t terribly hard to do on a dual sport ride, since every time you take off on that bike, you are creating an adventure no matter how small. Especially when you are riding with others!
Some of the most popular photos on the interent were taken with a cell phone, at just the right time.
Timing is everything.
That being said, how do you tell a story?
Emotion is number one. I tend to stick with positivity when I take pictures. However, any emotion will work for a photo.
Happiness.
A moment someone is totally captured by the activity, a real smile, excitement, laughter. Someone picking up their bike with a big grin you can see, even with their helmet on.
Anger/Worry.
Are you trying to make someone understand a real world issue? Show them the dark side of it. Maybe, torn up ground off-trail in a sensitive riding area in danger of being shut down.
Wonder/Curiosity.
Some photos make you stare and stare. Something very interesting is happening here…but what? The viewer is captivated and asking “What? Why? How?”. For example, a bike stuck in a tree. How in the heck did they do that?
The list goes on and on. Make them feel something. However, this is difficult to do, if the subject matter isn’t important or dear to you. Pick something from your own soul, and project it into a picture.
Capture a real moment in time.
Ok, now you’re thinking…"here’s the part where I learn what camera to use."
Not quite yet.
Now that you have a message, a story, an emotion…what’s next?
Framing.
If you think your cell phone camera isn’t cutting it, maybe you need to try some new techniques. Modern cameras in our pockets take great photos, and are very easy to use and readily available to us at all times.
Look at Craigslist, for example. Many photos of cars with part of the vehicle cut off, bad angle, and more issues. We really need to see the vehicle for sale correctly.
Always pay attention to what’s in frame, and where. This is something that takes practice, and studying other photos. You want your subject to show properly. Also, leading lines help the eye go to your subject.
Similar to what our friend Tim Burke (a traveling motographer) once said in a Podcast:
“Move around, try new angles.”
Most of your favorite photos by professional photographers were probably chosen out of a handful taken, trying to get the framing correct. Every photo is a new experience, and it takes a moment to figure out the right spot to stand, how high or low to be, and so on. I recommend taking a lot at once, and figuring out why your favorite one is your favorite from the set. Eventually, you’ll be taking less photos, and nailing the framing quicker.
Lighting.
A camera is essentially just a detector, picking up light waves bouncing off of objects.
Keep your subject bright, so it can be seen clearly. The eyes always attract to the brightest part of a photo. There are also editing techniques to be found online to increase this, however, I suggest trying to get it as correct as possible with the camera first. I am still working on this trick myself, so don’t be discouraged.
You can also use artificial light to make a subject pop. Check out some YouTube videos if you want to learn more. However, this isn’t always an option when you are riding, since all you want to bring is a camera and shoot on the go. This is something we very rarely do, and just rely on natural light such as sunlight, moonlight, campfires, streetlights, and more.
Focus.
As I said before with bright subjects, the most in-focus part of the photo is what will stand out the most. This can be the whole photo, or just the subject with a blurry background or foreground.
Want to show everyone what tire you are using? Make sure it is tack-sharp to capture the detail, and the viewer’s attention to the tire.
You may be wondering at this point, “but how do I make the camera do those things?”.
Most cameras are pretty good at guessing these, but there are times when you need to tell the camera what to do. They do a great job at assessing the frame and setting itself, but a camera never knows exactly what you are trying to show. They don’t have emotion, just calculation.
If you are just starting out with photography, I recommend using “Auto” for a while.
This allows you to work on the basics of lighting, framing, and subject. It also takes away the error of using the wrong settings if you aren’t used to using manual settings on your camera.
Shooting with a cell phone camera does this trick, as most are already in “Auto” as soon as you open your camera application.
Ready to step it up a little?
Going from a cell phone to a stand-alone camera won’t make you a better photographer over night, just as a better bike won’t instantly make you a better rider. You’ll still need to work on the things mentioned before to be able to take a great photo, like learning the basics of the bike on the one you have, first. What it will do is give you better color, contrast, sharpness, resolution, depth of field, and so on. This is why these cameras give you a better “photo quality”.
Cameras have a handful of settings. Landscape mode, portrait mode, sports mode, and more. Each of these is set up to help you with a certain photo situation. Much like Auto, it picks settings based off of the frame. However, it understands a bit more what you are trying to capture. For example, sport mode keeps the shutter speed high, so the subject doesn’t blur in you photo.
Alright, so now you’ve got a lot of things nailed down with many hours of practice. You’re ready to move up to the ultimate amount of control with your camera:
Manual mode.
This mode lets you take full control, and the camera ceases to do anything automatically. You now have to control a variety of separate settings, changing them for every new situation you encounter. Each setting takes a while to understand, and also how each setting affects the next one.
Manual is something that takes a long time to adjust to, but it’s what I primarily use to keep full control of what we are trying to convey in an image.
I’ll go over the most commonly used ones.
Shutter Speed.
In the most simple of terms, this tells the camera how long to let light in. A camera shutter opens, then closes, for a set amount of time. The longer it is open, the more light comes in. This changes the brightness of the photo, however, it will also blur an object since it sees it moving across its frame as its open.
If you are shooting someone riding fast, keep your shutter speed high. It is measured in fractions of a second (1/30, 1/4000, and so on), so the smaller the fraction, the faster the shutter speed. You can brighten a subject that is not moving by slowing the shutter speed down.
You can use “Shutter Mode”, to let the camera run like “Auto”, but only one designated shutter speed.
Aperture.
As I am writing this, I realized I didn’t know how to spell that correctly. Just a reminder that we are always in the learning process!
The camera has a device, much like the pupils of our eyes, that opens and closes a certain distance to choose the amount of light coming in when the shutter opens. This is measured with “F”, followed by a number, such as F8 or F2.8. This gets tricky to understand, especially since the larger the number, the more closed the aperture is. To brighten a photo up, choose a smaller “F” number. To darken it, choose a smaller one.
Aperture is also strange, in the fact that it changes how the photo is in focus. The farther open it is, the less you have parts of the photo in focus. Play around with it a bit to get it figured out, so you can choose your focal depth and subject focus for each photo.
If you want your buddy’s helmet in focus, and the background out of focus, change your aperture setting accordingly.
Cameras also have an “Aperture Mode”, in case you want to lock in one F setting, and let the camera choose the other settings automatically.
ISO.
From the days of film, this setting was actually a physical property of the film, judging how quickly the film physically got brighter.
Nowadays, digital cameras do this artificially. If you are unable to get your shutter speed slow enough, or your aperture open enough to get the correct brightness, you can use ISO to compensate.
This is a last resort however, as high ISO will cause your photos to be more grainy. Shooting in low light, but don’t want a blurry/unfocused photo? Up this setting. The larger the ISO number, the more brightness you will achieve.
Now, the moment you’ve all been waiting for!
What camera should I use?
The short answer is:
The one you have with you.
Now, that’s not what you wanted to hear, is it? Of course not. This rings true to our above statement, it’s not about the camera, it’s about telling a story.
However, I will share with you what I use on my dual sport journeys currently.
We all know that dual sports are not large bikes. So, carrying light is important!
If you are over using your cell phone camera, our recommendation is to either choose a compact camera, or a mirrorless one. These both save space compared to a standard DSLR, which has a large body because of the mirrors inside bringing the light up to the viewfinder, so you can see what you have in frame.
My current go-to cameras are the Sony A7Rii, and the Sony RX100V. Check around the web for other mirrorless/compact cameras. There are many to choose from, and ones that fit any budget.
As for safely carrying your gear, I recommend keeping them in a tank bag. In the event of a crash, this is the safest place, as the handlebars keep the tank bag from contacting the ground in the event of a bike falling over. I highly advise not keeping a mirrorless camera or DSLR in a backpack, because it is terribly easy to fall on it. If you are running a compact camera, try keeping it in a chest pocket of your jacket for quick accessibility, so you don’t miss that shot.
I use the Mosko Moto Nomad, since it’s largest pocket easily fits a mirrorless/DSLR and a spare lens. The sturdiness of the bag keeps everything in place by tightening the side straps, keeping the camera from bouncing around.
I hope I made an impact on your photo skills, or at least gave you momentum to start shooting better. I am still learning as well, and would love to hear your tips!
Happy shooting, and ride safe!
]]>With summer behind us, we are beginning to move into many months of that weather the Pacific Northwest is famous for. Many riders have already begun winterizing their bikes because it’s going to be cold and wet, not exactly ideal riding conditions.
Those of us that don’t want to let winter weather keep us from riding are breaking out the gear that has been stored away all summer. Waterproof shells, warm base layers, heated gear, and more. If you own any waterproof riding gear, there’s a likely chance that it is a GORE-TEX product.
KLiM’s line of waterproof apparel is made with GORE-TEX. This extremely waterproof, durable, and breathable material is what keeps you comfortable in inclement weather. However, it does require some simple maintenance to keep it working properly.
What’s the secret to keeping GORE-TEX products waterproof?
According to the GORE-TEX website, keeping it clean is the trick!
You’ll want to be careful with detergents when washing your apparel. Some soaps can ruin the material’s waterproof integrity. I chose to use Revivex Pro Cleaner to clean all of our gear, since it is specifically created for durable waterproof repellent materials (DWR).
Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your apparel tag.
Over time, the DWR will need to be refreshed. Tumbling the material in a dryer on warm for a bit will help reactivate the treatment, but after a while it will need to be re-applied. Using a spray like TX.Direct is an easy way to do it, but you can also find a variety made for washing in the treatment. This can be done directly after cleaning.
If you have developed any holes or tears, you can patch them up using Tenacious Tape.
Give your gear a confidence test and get it wet. If it’s beading nicely and not soaking in, you are set to ride all winter! Stay dry and keep exploring.
]]>
Have you ever crashed your bike on a ride? Those who have know that even a small wipeout can cause some serious injuries. However, how many of us always carry First Aid gear?
The number is surprisingly low. One of the most commonly overlooked pieces of riding equipment, and it’s designed to keep you from further injury and…..alive.
The ADV Kit by RideWild Medical is specifically designed for off-road motorcycle adventures. It was created by a Wilderness-EMT and motocross track medic, who has experienced travelling on a motorcycle on the Panamerican highway.
On one of his travels, he witnessed a rider go down on an adventure ride who torqued his knee pretty badly. No one had the right kind of medical gear to deal with a situation, since most First Aid kits treat injuries from safer activities such as hiking.
The setup of this kit is very impressive, and even comes in a very durable and waterproof rolltop bag. Each individual item is high quality, and even includes things like a splint and flashlight!
Use of many of these items can be found online, such as the triangular bandage and steri-strips for wound closure.
Here’s a full list of the contents of The ADV Kit:
SAM splint, Triangular bandages, Trauma shears, Durapore tape, Safety pins, ChitoSAM 4x4 hemostatic gauze, NAR compressed gauze, RATS tourniquet, Bear Claw nitrile gloves, BandAids, Benzoin adhesive, 1/8" Steri-strips, Moleskin, Coast G19 flashlight, Triple antibiotic ointment, Burn gel, Ibuprofen, Acetaminophen, Aspirin, Diphenhydramine, and Precision tweezers.
We recommend keeping a kit like this somewhere you can quickly access it, like the Nomad tank bag seen above. Also, when riding in a group, it’s good to let everyone know you have a medical kit and where it is located.
“Good training trumps good gear any day” - Aaron Kinn, the owner of RideWild Medical, recommending everyone takes a Wilderness First Aid level training class.
Featured on: Upshift Online - KLIM - Mosko Moto - Revzilla
Story, and photos (unless otherwise noted), by Jesse Felker.
Photo by Drew Ruiz.
Early this year, I received a call from Honda. They were looking for me to guide them on a private tour in our region, which developed into the opportunity to build a route and lead the rides during the CRF450L Premiere out of Packwood, WA.
Why Packwood? This little town at the foot of Mt Rainier is a gem for dual sport riding. The surrounding national forest is the Gifford Pinchot, with endless miles of forest roads with views, twisty backroads, and all the singletrack you could ever need. It is also a mountain town, tucked away from the metropolis of Seattle and Portland, and is the gateway to Mt Rainier National Park.
Within moments of leaving town, you can find yourself on a number of Forest Service roads leading into the mountains. One of the most traveled ones is NF-21, which is a part of a popular ADV route through Washington. This route is a portal to days and days of riding in the GPNF.
Chris Jonnum, a Honda team member, flew in during the summer to ride with me in the GPNF. With a rental DRZ-400S and my 500, we spent 2 days scouting trails, campgrounds, views, and more. The goal was to make sure Packwood would be the right spot to show all of the 450L’s capabilities, and have a memorable impact on the riders. Chris is “the man” making the Premiere happen, and he is really good at it!
We rode everything that these bikes were made for, were rewarded with epic views, and it was settled. Packwood it is!
Even the paved sections in the Gifford are fun. Tight, windy roads with towering evergreens on both sides. Quite often on this highway you will see entrances to many different bits of singletrack. Perfect for trail connecting.
During another scouting venture, I met up with Casey Cryan, a local Packwood dual sport rider and long time member of PNWDS. He took me to Burley Mountain Lookout, an impressive sight in person. On a clear day, you can see Rainier, Adams, St Helens, and Hood all at the same time. This lookout is also open to the public to camp in, even featuring a wood fireplace and a liquid fuel stove.
On scouting trips, I was riding out of cell service and far from town. I needed to bring extra supplies such as oil, tools, parts, etc. However, I didn’t want the bulk of my motocamping luggage, or to carry it on my back. With a bit of rearranging, I was able to “fold” up my Reckless 40L harness with the leg bags removed to keep the luggage tight with a minimal payload.
A large amount of the single track is pretty easy, with a great flow to it. Many sections even include waterfalls that you ride right past, or even over the top of on beautifully constructed moto bridges. However, it does get pretty wild.
After all of the tracks had been laid out, it was time for the exciting part.
The 450L Premiere begins, all starting with a big Honda semi truck rolling through town, getting everyone’s attention. This truck contained a pile of brand-new, unreleased 2019 CRF450Ls and a handful of 650Ls.
Photo by Luke Takahashi.
The gear I picked to use during the Premiere was the Dakar as a base, paired with Forecast pants and a Stow Away jacket in case of cold and rain. These were easily packed away on the bike or in my Arsenal Vest, which carried my hydration and radio equipment. With the mix of singletrack and highway, I chose to wear the Krios helmet in order to cut down on wind noise and the weather on my face. This is my go-to setup for any day I’m riding anything aggressive, with a chance of inclement weather and highway time. KLiM’s apparel options are wide enough to mix and match gear for any riding situation you may be in.
Photo by Drew Ruiz.
Always right behind us was Mike Spears, our own EMT ready for anything. He carried his medical gear on a 650L inside of a Reckless 80L.
I outfitted the bike with prototypes of the now available Pico tank bag, and also luggage system that solves the situation with my R40 from earlier: the Reckless 10L. After using this minimalist Mosko Moto setup, I can assure you this is the ultimate setup for a long day on a dual sport. The products made by this company are the highest quality and most adaptable fully waterproof luggage solutions on the market.
Before the editors arrived, we had two days to ride. I took the Honda crew out on day one on the proposed route and extra options I had available, so we could work out a final route plan. We brought a handful of 650Ls along, the workhorses of the Premiere. It was fun seeing them excited to ride something new, most of them living in California full time. Far less dust, much more green, and a lot of tree cover.
From high mountain lakes, to meadows, to cliff-side singletrack, we rode the entire day. Always right behind me was Honda team member Johnny Campbell, 11 time Baja 1000 champion, who was an honor to ride with.
There were a lot of specific things that Honda needed included in the ride. We would need several designated photo spots, lunch, and a good flow as we change terrain and location throughout the day. For the remainder of the day, we used my route and added these features as we went along.
The beginning of day two started out by myself and Johnny taking Hiroshi Nakashima out on a ride. Hiroshi was the Vice Large Project Leader for the 450L/X program out of Honda in Japan, and hadn’t yet ridden in Washington yet. So, we took him out on parts of the route for a fun rip.
Out of all of the days of the event, this was the only one we had that gave us a volcano view, so of course we stopped and took a lot of photos.
The remainder of day two was used to create content for the editors to use in their articles. Luckily, there was a handful of great photo spots just a few minutes from base camp.
As seen below, Brendan Lutes and Drew Ruiz know where to find the best shot. During the group rides, while carrying an impressive amount of equipment into the woods on 650Ls, they raced through the mountains to intersect us at the next stop, so it was pertinent to get the right logistics.
Atop the hill just above town, the media crew worked on stills. The place I took them was the Mt Rainier view as seen earlier in the story, but unfortunately the Pacific Northwest has a tendency to get cloudy.
Brendan eyed this spot on the way up the mountain, and turned out to be the perfect on-road/off-road transition.
I just don’t think the shoot could be complete without this tandem wheelie!
Also on the team was PNWDS crew member, Travis Zylstra, on emergency bike recovery duty and running supplies into the woods with his rock crawler. He might look blue in that Dakar setup, but he’s having a blast.
The R10 has an amazing amount of room for your legs to move back as compared to the R40. Great for those times you need to have a leg down for those pivot turns.
Turns out, the 3” PNWDS decal fits perfectly above the headlight.
Now that all the groundwork had been taken care of, it was time for the show. Honda did a great job at setting up the yard of the venue for everyone, easy to grab a bike and roll out.
Jason Paredes, the bike tech, even took the time to set up my bike for my weight and ergonomics. Jason Abbott, off-road media coordinator, fine-tuned the suspension for my riding.
Each of the editors added their own touch to the bike they would be riding. It was awesome seeing everyone’s logos slapped on the 450s for a day, and gave each one it’s own personality.
For the next four days, we started each day by riding up into the clouds. Following that, 100+ miles were ridden. I’ll let these photos tell the story:
As any big event, there’s always a lot more going on in the background. Jason and Travis spent every single evening detailing, repairing, and maintaining the bikes past midnight sometimes.
Big thanks to Honda for this great opportunity, and an amazing experience.
Photo by Drew Ruiz.
Starting in White Salmon, the home of the Mosko Moto HQ, we headed south and passed right by Mt Hood. Our plan was to stage out of the Prineville area, but early into our roadtrip, we were surprised to find snow coming down heavily.
To kill some time and to get to better weather, we made a decision to push on to Summer Lake Hot Springs. Booked a cabin for the the night, and planned to get up and ride first thing the next morning.
As we traveled through the middle of nowhere, we experienced wide open spaces, canyon walls, a whole lot of wild horses, and pronghorn.
As we passed Mt Hood on the way back, we caught the awesome alpenglow.
We've been lucky enough in the Pacific Northwest that fall hasn't kicked in too hard for most of October. It's been a bit colder, but not too much rain. That definitely changed drastically a few days ago.
I woke up in the motorhome after listening to the popping sound of very heavy rain on the RV roof. The dog would look around the room and at the ceiling, trying to figure out what was going on. Instead of being upset about the weather, I remembered how much I appreciate this time of year for riding. No bright sun, no sweating, no dust. The colors pop, especially the greens and yellows, and have enough contrast to make for great views. My favorite part, however, is the clouds and fog hanging in the evergreens like a blanket. There's nothing more PNW than that.
Planning ahead this summer, I made sure I had gear that was ready to tackle this wet season. There was no way I was going to sit out a winter and not ride my motorbike. It hadn't been wet for a while, so I hadn't had a real chance to test it out. I decided today was the day to go out and see how comfortable or miserable I could be, and whether or not my supplies would survive.
For this adventure, I opted for a standard dual sport setup. Keeping it simple, yet having the essentials, is the heart of dual sport preparation. Tank bag and tool pouch is all you need, as long as you do it right. It's about finding the perfect balance between dirt biking from the back of the truck and a full on adventure.
I slid my Mosko Moto Fatty Tool Roll inside of it's waterproof pouch, rolled it up, and strapped it to my grab handle. This differs from most tool pouches, since it actually comes with a superior quality watertight solution. I can leave it outside the bike, without worrying about my tools rusting, or shoving it in some sort of drybag.
The Mosko Moto Nomad Tank Bag went in it's usual spot, but I deployed the rain cover immediately and cinched it in place. It's pretty much a rain jacket for the tank bag, even though the bag itself is made of thick material, which would actually take a long time to saturate and get wet on the inside itself. I trust this setup enough that I kept my DSLR, batteries, air pump, stack of decals to share, etc inside of it on a day like this.
As for outerwear, I recently picked up a KLiM Traverse suit. I needed something waterproof enough for the winter, without the bulk and constriction of the Badlands setup. The Traverse, in my opinion, is basically a stripped-down version of the Badlands. Layering and having separate armor from the jacket and pants is important to me, as well as it being loose and lightweight for the off road sections.
Getting wet on a ride is your worst enemy. I made sure that every part of my body was prepared for this ride. I knew that it was going to be so wet that I was going to feel like I was riding through a hurricane on the freeway (especially behind cars).
Starting with my feet, I use the MSR Dual Sport Boot. These were designed to be fully waterproof, but after a year and a half of use, they fail in that department. I was able to compensate for that by using the discontinued KLiM Covert Sock, a Gore-Tex sleeve for your feet.
For the legs, I wore the KLiM 3.0 base layer pants, covered by my knee guards and tech shorts. Of course, I had the Traverse pant over that.
The torso was the same idea. Pressure suit armor, 3.0 base layer, Traverse jacket.
Helmet and goggle setup doesn't really change this time of year, it's basically all the same. I supplemented my Krios/Radius setup with a balaclava, though, which made a world of difference keeping wind and rain off of my neck.
I felt warm, dry, and comfortable enough, it was like I was wearing dual sport pajamas all day.
I set out with no plan nor direction. I ended up following Hwy 14 west until I hit the Bridge of the Gods. The rain was coming down extremely heavy at this point. Since there was so many hanging clouds, there was no way to un-fog my goggles. I was almost riding blind.
After a very miserable and seemingly unending ride down the 84 east, getting blasted by water spray of cars in front and next to me and not seeing a damn thing through my goggles, I finally arrived in Hood River. Quick pub stop for lunch.
After the pit stop, it was a short trip across the bridge to stop at the Mosko Moto shop.
I spent this entire ride in just regular moto gloves. These Hippo Hands made that possible, blocking all wind a rain from touching my hands, and keeping them warm by avoiding all wind chill.
Once I felt I had tortured myself enough on this 60 mile loop in the heaviest rain I'd been in for many, many months, I took off back to the RV.
Although, I couldn't help but stop and grab a shot of one of the many tunnels along that highway.
I made it home warm and dry still, and all gear intact.
Don't park that dual sport this winter, get out and enjoy the wet season.
]]>I landed the Jeep in Salmon, ID. Inside of it, was everything I owned.
Having recently quit my job in the Seattle area and given away all my things, I knew it was time for a real adventure.
I grew up in that town, and a lot of my family is still there. I had ten days to spare, so I decided it was a great time to do a multi-state trip on the 500. My only plan was to pick a direction every morning, and eventually loop back to Salmon. No schedule, no rush, no plans.
I wasn't going to be able to feel free enough if I had to keep moving constantly, or always stay on top of checking the clock.
Over the last year and a half, I have spent many weekends on motocamping trips around Washington, but never more than 4 days at a time. Many of those included leading PNW Dual Sport group rides, but this trip would be my first time going solo for an extended period of time.
Time, thought, and trial/error was put into my bike to set up for it to be capable of long excursions, so it was finally time to put it (and myself) to the test. I spent a lot of time organizing and obtaining all the things I needed, and my brother Henry helped me spend two days prepping the bike with new parts and doing the minor maintenance needed before working the dual sport for such a long ride.
Everywhere I go, I am asked about my bike setup. I have used Mosko Moto luggage for almost 2 years now, and always had a great experience. Soft luggage is much more adaptable to different applications, won't break your ankle, and is less likely to be damaged after contacting things like the ground, trees, or your buddy's bike.
My current "main" luggage is the Reckless 40L System V2.0. A very sturdy harness, that houses 3 separate, removable dry bags. Fully waterproof, adaptable, easy to access each compartment, tough enough to survive any adventure, and expandable with other luggage, such as chairs, tent bags, sleeping pads, or smaller Mosko Moto luggage accessories. This system was designed and engineered over many years through rider input, and fits my bike (and my travels) like a glove. I love the way it looks on the 500.
The tank bag I am currently using is the very recently released Nomad Tank Bag. There is absolutely no other tank bag on the market like this one. Everything is compartmentalized, adapts in shape depending on what is loaded in it, is customizable with a MOLLE panel on top, and includes a hydration bladder, map pocket, and deployable rain cover.
I keep all of my tools in the Fatty Tool Roll, a setup that is VERY sturdy, and set up to organize my tools better than any other tool pouch I've tried before. One of the key differences of this one to others, is that it comes with it's own rain pouch. The "belt" makes it easy to keep it closed, and the loop is a handy way to attach it to parts of your luggage and bike. It even has a whiskey drink recipe inside, but you'll have to get one yourself to find out how to make it.
To protect myself from the elements, I chose to ride in the new KLiM Dakar setup. The jersey is mesh, but the toughest mesh I've ever felt. Very strange, but cool. Ventilation is important, and the pants do the job well, also. Comfortable enough I didn't really notice the gear, which is a great sign. I paired it with a Forecast setup and base layers in case of inclement weather. I chose to wear dirt gear over adventure gear, because it's difficult to be comfortable in something so constrictive and hot. May not have been the safest choice, but it was the most comfortable one.
The KLiM Arsenal Vest made it easy to carry things on me for easy access, and to have hydration ready at all times.
I have been wearing the same pair of boots for almost two years. They aren't the safest or sturdiest boot, but they waterproof and very comfortable. I used to not bring shoes on trips, and just wear these MSR Dual Sport boots the entire weekend. The gummy sole on the bottom is great for gripping the pegs, even when it's raining.
The gear and equipment to take along on a trip like this is a never ending learning and adapting experience. Most of it is largely opinion/preference based, so the best way to find out is to just try it on your own and learn through experience. Just grab what you think you need, and give it a shot. You'll figure it out eventually, and may even enjoy the problem solving involved.
Passing over the continental divide at Big Hole Pass, I got turned around numerous times trying to find the CDT, but ran into this old homestead down some rocky two-track road.
Hadn't I gotten lost, I would have never found it. Definitely worth a good photo stop.
Feeling a little down that I couldn't find the trail, I decided continuing down the pass road into Montana was probably the best option. This led me into the town of Wisdom, where I got some advice at a local gas station of a neat place nearby I could stay at for the night, so I high-tailed it directly to Elkhorn Hot Springs.
If the one homestead house I found sitting by itself earlier that day wasn't enough, I was fortunate enough to come across an entire mining ghost town just up the road from the campground I hung my hammock up at for the night. This little run-down town, in my mind, seemed like the perfect place for a beer break.
I was technically downtown, so why not?
The town was once basecamp to a pretty massive silver mining facility. This megastructure blew my mind when I rolled up on it, I didn't expect more than just a mine shaft sticking out of a hillside.
Looking for an alternate way out of the mine, instead of backtracking, I found myself a little bit "off path". I parked the bike on what was almost an island, because of how wide the stream meandered around it. Caught the alpineglow just in time. Watching the 500 slowly sink in the mud as I was taking photos let me know it was time to ride back to camp.
I ended up freezing my ass off that night in my hammock. The temp dropped to 34 degrees (read on my Trail Tech Voyager). After scrambling around camp, I finally found a lighter and got the fire going again, which I slept to the rest of the night in my chair.
The following day, I decided to take a long dirt section behind the Blacktail Mountains en route to Yellowstone National Park. Plenty of 70mph gravel for speed. A few sandy sections to keep you on your toes. Even the skeletal remains of an elk to remind you that you are in the high desert. I ended up crossign the Continental Divide again.
Arriving in Yellowstone wasn't as busy as I expected, but I did show up in the evening.
It's hard being on a bike this narrow and not cutting in line.
Best way to avoid traffic in Yellowstone? Go on the long routes late in the day. Most everyone is headed back to their campsite or hotel, and they aren't sure if they'll complete the section before dark.
My timing arriving in Yellowstone could not have been worse. It was peak summer time, and a few days before the big solar eclipse everyone was flocking towards. Every camp site was booked a long time ago. My back-up plan was to shoot out of the park in the evening, and find some national forest to run into and camp. I was fortunate enough, though, to run into someone named Bill Rider (that's really his last name) on a KTM 1290. We chatted bikes, travel, flat track racing (which he did for 15 years), and eventually he invited me to share the campground his wife and him had already reserved for the night.
Bikes have a great way of bringing people together.
I made my way around the entire Grand Loop in a day, but didn't take many photos. I did make an effort to stop and grab this:
After running around the park solo all day, I found Bill and Estelle's camp spot well after dark, and settled in for the night. Beers and story swapping lasted late into the night.
Putting the rubber back down the next morning, I high-tailed it to the Grand Tetons. A place I've been wanting to return to for many years. I took the longer route there, and ended up getting pulled over. The officer told me I passed him in a no-passing zone (I definitely did), but I told him he was parked in the middle of a road in a blind corner, so I had no choice. Surprisingly, he just let me leave. Boring story.
The Tetons are the most spectacular looking range I've seen in my life. A highway runs north through the valley just east of these peaks. You can stare at them while riding alongside, and watch them change shape as your viewpoint shifts.
Moments after stepping off my bike, I was greeted by someone walking out of a pizzeria. His first words were "I follow you on Instagram!". Scott and I chatted for a bit, and he said he had the perfect spot for watching the eclipse with a Teton view.
He was not kidding, awesome spot:
While out on that star photo mission, I did not secure my Mosko Moto Fatty Tool Roll properly. All of my spare parts, tools, and necessities for keeping my bike rolling down the highway were lost. If you've ever even just gone on a day ride with your dual sport, you can understand the discomfort and un-easiness I experienced the next leg of the journey...it was like riding around with my helmet unstrapped.
The following morning brought a great sunrise that shown onto the peaks, making them glow. The following photo is not that moment.
It was finally eclipse day. We waited in anticipation all morning. We watched as the moon slowly covered the sun (with eclipse glasses on, of course). Eventually, day became night after a very unusual lighting change. The birds got quiet, bugs showed up thinking it was night, and the stars came out. We saw a beautiful sunset effect in a 360 around us. Being in the direct path of totality, the returning light from the sun passed directly over the Tetons before returning to us. It was like watching the sunrise at noon.
Spectacular sight unlike anything I've ever seen:
What if I told you...the bison was moving faster than post-eclipse traffic.
With limited storage being available on any bike, I only had a few sets of undergarments and street clothes with me. With the heat and dust, everything gets nasty pretty quick. Laundry machines are a rare amenity, so I schemed up a plan to get some fresh clothes. Since the Mosko Moto Reckless 40 leg bags are fully waterproof, I figured one of them would make a great laundry machine.
I rode down to the nearby lake with a leg bag full of dirty clothes, added some water and Wilderness Wash, closed it up and shook it all about. After letting it soak for a bit, I pullled each piece out one at a time and rinsed it in the lake. After a good wringing, I dried it all by the campfire.
SInce they were designed to be a race bike, oil changes are required more often on the 500.
I pack two 1.5L fuel bottles with filters in the lower pouches of the Mosko Moto Reckless 40. The capacity of these bottles is the exact amount needed for my engine, so no measuring required. A quick stop at an auto parts store, and I was able to buy a set of cheap tools to replace all the ones I lost. I threw them all in a generic tool pouch I could hang off the beavertail straps of the R40. Stopping there to do the oil change gave me the advantage of borrowing the loaner drain pain, and they even discarded the used oil for me.
A nice peace of mind while piling miles up.
Just as I finished putting the bike back together and putting my gear on, my bike suddenly collapsed. Luckily, I was standing right next to it.
Turns out, the kickstand gave out. Most likely, the bolt had loosened, and I didn't catch it in time. Between the weight of my luggage, and standing on my pegs with the stand down over and over, it finally had enough of my bullshit. Even with the failure, I am still impressed with the Trail Tech kickstand. When the stock kickstand fails this way, you can't just get a new bolt for it, since there is a bushing pressed in that will break as well.
I saved the bolt head for future reference during replacement later, and put the kickstand in one of the accessory straps on the R40. Topped off with gas, I followed the highway south through some very straight, boring, and empty landscape on the way to Utah.
The moment I crossed the Wyoming-Utah border, the entire terrain dramatically changed. It was like rolling into another planet. Canyons, uplifted faces of rock shooting straight out of the earth, and winding roads that made for excellent riding.
I should note, the majority of this trip was spent in 90-100 degree weather.
Utah was probably the hottest part.
I can fit nearly a gallon of water in the Hydrapack of my KLiM Arsenal Vest, and a reserve of 1.8L in the Mosko Moto Nomad Tank Bag. Riding down the road, I found myself sipping water about every 15 minutes. One of the most important things to do on a ride (or life, in general) is to stay hydrated. You'll have a much better experience doing that. I have failed at this on the bike many times, and had a miserable experience which each time could have been much worse if I was as far from home as I was during this trip.
Having the Platypus in the bottom of the Nomad, and using gravity to let the water flow out of the mouthpiece, was great for quickly filling up a cup or rinsing my toothbrush off.
Riding through the canyon roads in Utah was incredible. The pavement felt like a racetrack, meandering next to rock faces, and opening up to enormous views revealing red-rock geological features for miles. I had my music cranked up, was up standing on the pegs, and having a blast.
That all came to a halt, really quick.
Recognize that? This is what you find when your rear end suddenly starts wobbling uncontrollably at 70mph. The wheel bearing completely blew out, leaving me on the side of the road.
I guess all of the higher-speed miles in such hot weather did it's toll. Remember, these are short-course race bikes, not adventure bikes.
This all happened at 5:45PM, just outside Vernal, UT. There was only one motorcycle shop still open, so I gave them a call. A guy named Drew answered, and said they don't carry anything for KTM. But....he offered to come pick me up when he got off work with the shop trailer.
The universe is a good place.
One of the best things you can do for yourself when things don't go right is to keep a good attitude. Find something positive in the negative, or just remind yourself "this too shall pass". My upside to this down situation was finally staying in a hotel room, and taking a real shower finally. Vernal was once a booming oil town, so many nice hotels went up to house the oil workers. Turns out, it went flat. The hotels now are much cheaper, as they are struggling to fill rooms, so I ended up staying in one of the nicest rooms I've ever booked. It even had a dishwasher, where I washed one lonely dish: my titanium spork.
Drew hauled my bike to the dealership, let me lock it up in the yard, and even helped me carry my luggage into my hotel room. Then began "the search". I needed to find a solution to get me back on the road. Just grab new bearings, right? Not quite.
The plan was to wait until morning, walk to the local KTM dealer, pick up some new bearings, and let Drew throw them in for me. However, after calling them the minute they opened, they let me know they had zero in stock.
Vernal is pretty far from any other major city. I started worrying about how long I would be stuck in that town. I started consulting friends and the online community. Most told me to have some shipped overnight, but I felt like that would be risky (if they got there late or lost) and expensive (more hotel costs). Someone online let me know the standard bearing part number, so I got hopeful and started calling every auto shop, hardware store, and similar business to try and track at least one down. Nothing.
I was about to give in and order a pair when someone on Facebook contacted me, saying he did some research and found 2 in stock at the local Fastenal in town. Way above and beyond! I darted there as fast as I could, and sure enough, they were the right bearings! While I was at it, I grabbed a socket head bolt and a few washers to re-attach my kickstand. Double win.
With supplies in hand, I ran back to the shop. Drew went to work right away.
I've swapped wheel bearings on the 500 myself before, but since I was on a time crunch, I let the shop handle this one. Turns out, this was an excellent idea. The inner chase of the bearing welded itself into the spacer and had to be removed by a grinder. Something I would not have been able to do myself with simple tools on the side of the road.
Rolling the bike out of the shop, and having it back in my possession again, was an enormously relieving feeling. IF you've ever had to park your bike for a while and not ride it, you know where I'm coming from.
Just as I was ready to roll back to the hotel, my friend Jason showed up. He had been on a similar trip to mine for over a week, but on an FJR 1300. He was headed north through Vernal as I was headed south. It was awesome to be able to catch up with him for a bit, swap road stories, and drink a few beers.
With everything finally sorted out, I rolled all of my gear and luggage outside on a hotel cart. It was heavy and barely fit, with things trying to fall off the sides. I loaded it all up, put it on, and went onward towards Colorado.
Shortly after crossing this vibrant sign, I saw the greenest and cloudiest terrain I had yet encountered on this trip. During a very hot and dry summer, Colorado still had some very live areas. It immediately got colder, which was an amazing break from constant sweat.
The weather eventually showed it's "cold" side by greeting me with thunder and storm clouds on the horizon.
Since I was in the Dakar setup, which is mostly built for dirt biking, I didn't have any weather resistance. I pulled out my Forecast gear from behind my headlight to suit up for the rain, which fit right over my riding gear, and underneath my Arsenal Vest.
It was quick and easy to suit up in, and within minutes, I was being pummeled by heavy rain only lasting 30 minutes or so. I didn't want to stop and take it all off again, in case another storm passed over, so I opened the side vents on the jacket to keep the airflow going.
My time in Colorado was very short. I made a direct line for Grand Junction, where I picked up some supplies. Following that, I immediately headed back into Utah to work my way towards Moab. Not really sure if CO really even counts as part of the trip.
Entering Utah once again, I could see the distinct features you see in pictures of Moab. Something Jason would call "roadrunner country".
It was a long, hot, and very straight stretch of freeway on the way to Moab. Thankfully, the views of red towering rock and other strange features kept it interesting. I found myself riding with my legs up on the tank, and laying my back on my luggage for most of it.
Downtown Moab is a very rad little area. Of course, I went to the local brewery, then headed into the hills to camp. There was almost no one around. That night, I sat in my chair and drank two very hot beers that were in my luggage all day. The milky way came out very strong. I could hear bats hunting above me, as well as two owls 20 feet away from me having a conversation, each in their own voice. The last noise I remember also hearing was the very distant roar of 4x4s navigating through the night.
Just as the rest of the trip, that morning I needed to pick a new destination. With numerous friends recommended I go ride the White Rim Road, I couldn't justify skipping it. I had never heard of it before, but trusted in my buddies' intuitions, and made a direct route. It's located in Canyonlands National Park.
Arriving at the Island in the Sky visitor center, I was told I would need a permit to travel on the White Rim Road. This ended up being very easy, just fill out the slip, and you are good to go.
I hit the trail, and dropped in elevation quickly while scaling down the side of a canyon wall on a crazy switchback road. The further down I got, the hotter it grew. I was eventually back in the 100 degree weather once I was in the "bottom" where it opened up into a valley, with no clouds in sight. This is the kind of place that makes you feel very isolated.
Now, for the weirdest thing to ever happen to me on a bike:
While shooting across the canyon floor, I was suddenly startled by a very loud and instant BOOM. I about jumped off my bike in reaction. The thoughts running through my mind in just a second or two were: gunshot, bomb, landmine...you name it. It was extremely loud. I looked back, and saw a cloud of something just behind my bike, leftover from the explosion. Soon after, I had discovered that my full can of chain lube I had, went off like a bomb.
Unfortunately, the shitty tool pouch I was using had slid down onto my exhaust, catching the pouch on fire. This eventually ignited the chain lube and blew it up. All of the tools were gone, save a few I found near the bike. I searched and searched, and could not find the rest. I did, however, find the remnants of the lube bottle. The cyclinder of it was 500 feet to the right of my bike, off in the desert. The bottom of the can, about 500 ft to the left. Must have been a sight to see, given there was someone to see it.
Feeling defeated and overheated, I headed out of the canyon. Being as far as I was from civilization, and feeling guilty about leaving my dog for so long, I decided slabbing it on the fastest route home was the smart choice.
Backtracking, I started finding my tools. One. At. A. Time. For 3 miles, they were on the road. The bag must have been on fire for quite a long time, slowly melting and dropping everything I had just bought. Now, riding in this 100 degree heat is tough enough. Try stopping every 100 feet, climbing off the bike, hiking around picking up tools, and getting back on the bike...for 3 miles! It was miserable.
It was definitely dissapointing not finishing this trail, but returning to do the White Rim is a high priority for me right now.
The rest of the trip was spent doing very long sections of boring highway, sleeping in strange places when I couldn't push myself any further, and almost running out of gas a couple times.
11 days, over 2000 miles, and 1,000,000 memories later, I was back in Salmon.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my misadventure, whether in awe or laughter.
My goal was to humiliate myself a bit, so that I may motivate others to go headfirst and try something over their ability or knowledge, without the worry of what may happen or what others may think of them. Sometimes you just need to go out and do it, even when you are underprepared. The riding community (and the rest of the universe) will be there to help you through it, and you may even surprise yourself with what you are able to figure out on your own.
You'll learn more about travel, different regions, surviving an ADV trip, and your bike's needs.
But, mostly, you'll learn so much about yourself. Get out there and just do it.
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